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Generally, this is the time in your life when hormones can play havoc on the skin. Some will get lucky and not have to deal with big breakouts, but the norm ranges from the odd spot to a major acne attack. For teenagers, hormonal changes are responsible for an increase in sebum production, causing blocked pores and the temptation to scrub, squeeze and dry out the skin – this is a big mistake.
Excessive exfoliating can cause irritation and the spread of bacteria; and the use of harsh drying products can result in dehydration and sensitivity, leaving the skin rough and inflamed. Cleanse, tone and moisturise regularly. Once a week, deep-cleanse with a mask. When spots appear, treat them topically with special medicated preparations.
Over-the-counter cleansers and toners containing salicylic acid (to unclog the pores) or alpha hydroxy acids (fruit acids that prevent breakouts) also do the job. Do not squeeze – the skin will scar and the spots could spread. Pimples on the forehead can be caused by greasy hair products that leak onto the face – change your hair products. Serious acne (Propionibacterium acne) should be treated by an expert in this field (beauty therapist, dermatologist or homeopath).
Topical or oral antibiotics used daily can help to clear spots. Antibiotics taken orally should only be used in severe cases, as there can be side effects. In moderate cases, retinoid treatments and vitamin A derivatives help unclog pores and normalise the skins normal cell growth and shedding. Some oral contraceptives have proved very successful. And don't forget the sunscreen.
The good times (20- 35)
The 20s are when the skin should have settled and cell turnover is super-efficient, leaving the skin firm and smooth. Stick to a basic skincare regime suited to your skin type. Night treatments shouldn't be necessary yet but moisturiser and sun screen are essential. Now's the time to pay special attention to eyes, neck and hands – prevention is better than cure. Should your skin still be excessively oily from a teenage hormonal hangover, stick to oil-free products – steaming and masks also benefit a congested skin.
As you move into your late 20s and early 30s, invest in specialised skin treatments designed for the eyes, neck and hands. Exfoliate twice a week and use a hydrating mask once a week – with the slowing down of cell turnover and sebum production, fine lines start to show.
From your 30s onward, pigmentation and brown spots could appear as the skin produces less melanin. The cause could be hormonal due to pregnancy or a combination of the pill and sun. There are a variety of treatments on the market, and another option is chemical or fruit-acid peeling. Consider this carefully and do your research. The process (an aggressive form of exfoliation) is quite invasive and should only be performed by highly qualified and experienced therapists, dermatologists and plastic surgeons.
The Pepita Micro Dermabrasion is simple and painless – requiring no pre-treatment or anaesthetic. A jet of fine crystals is used to remove the skin's dead and damaged cells. Depending on the depth, this can be done to brighten the skin or to eliminate scarring and stretch marks. For more info, call (021) 425-3551. Note: If you suffer from fever blisters, these could appear after treatment.
Laser resurfacing is another option. Major breakthroughs are being made with this technique, fast becoming the method of choice. Various options are available, but this procedure should only be done by a plastic surgeon or dermatologist, as it requires skill and specialised medical training.
Life begins at…(35-50)
From your mid-30s on, the skin's surface becomes less effective in retaining moisture, causing dryness and dehydration. Serums, intensive moisturisers and night treatments are necessary to keep the skin's surface smooth and provide extra reinforcement. Consider regular visits to salons and use the intense facial therapy offered, such as Environ's Ionzyme DF Maclune. This option uses electrical currents to give treatments greater penetration through the skin, resulting in an infinitely smoother, firmer skin in 24 sessions.
Another excellent anti-ageing facial is Gatineau Melatogenine Professional Face Treatment. This combines precision technology and performance, soothing and smoothing lines, draining the skin of excess fluid (around the eyes) and toning slackening contours around the jaw.
Decléor's revolutionary anti-ageing facial, Evidence, has harnessed the best of the botanical world to rejuvenate the skin to its optimum condition. Treatment begins with a Decléor Back Diagnostic Massage – this identifies toxins present and assists the therapist to understand the skin's condition. The facial follows, using New Iris Aromessence and, for the décolleté, Iris Baume Concentrate. Divine! Your skin is hydrated and lifted, looking firm and glowing.
For home maintenance, use creamier cleansers and increase your intake of antioxidants, eat fresh fruits and vegetables, drink water and wear sun screen. During and after menopause, oestrogen production diminishes. So does collagen (the skin's structural support system), causing the skin to become thinner and facial features to sag.
Continue at home with super-rich treatments, firming serums, masks and facials. You may not be able to turn the clock back, but a well-kept skin, whatever your age, is a plus. If you're truly unhappy, cosmetic surgery remains an option. To quote Dr Des Fernandes: 'A face-lift doesn't make you look younger, it merely neatens the face.'
