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Are Brazilian keratin hair treatments really that bad?

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If you know someone who’s had a Brazilian hair treatment, they probably won’t shut up about it (some because it’s so amazing and others because it’s so expensive, but anyhoo).

The hair straightening treatment has a bad reputation, though. 

We have a look at the controversies, the background and what you as a consumer can do to ensure healthy hair and limit risks.

Wonder treatment

Brazilian keratin hair treatments are perfect for those people who have curly or frizzy-textured hair. It isn’t permanent, which is great for us commitment-phobes. Most treatments last around 8 weeks, but could last up to six months.

How it works

There’s a bit of a difference between a keratin treatment and Brazilian Blowout (even though many, even stylists, will use these terms interchangeably). 

Both make hair appear straighter, neither is permanent, both fight humidity, create a shine and improve manageability. In both you’ll probably be exposed to some level of hazardous chemical (like formaldehyde).

The differences come in a variety of small ways: A keratin treatment will calm unruly hair, given a straight and sleek appearance. It’s generally not recommended for straight or fine hair.

A Brazilian Blowout works well when you want to keep volume and movement, while having hair that’s frizz-free and more manageable. The Brazilian blowout process only takes around 90 minutes to 2 hours in a salon, whereas a keratin treatment may take up to three hours to finish.

Controversy:

Research by the University of Cape Town in 2014 showed that Brazilian keratin hair products available in South Africa contained ‘unacceptably high’ concentrations of cancer-causing formaldehyde. Sometimes as much as 5 times more than the permitted amount.


Formaldehyde is classified as a carcinogen (or cancer-causing agent). It’s also associated with eye and skin reactions and adverse pregnancy outcomes. 

Understandably the research at the time caused wide-spread shock for many consumers. Especially since researchers didn’t want to release the names of the products involved. City Press  applied for the details under the Promotion of Access to Information Act and the names were released in 2015 (Re+5 Brazilian Keratin Treatment Formaldehyde Free, Cadiveu Brazilian Cacau Keratin Treatment, Inoar Professional Brazilian Blow Dry, Hair-Liss Professional Line Keratin Treatment Chocolate, Medusa Professional Complex Brazilian Keratin Treatment, Hair Go Straight Choco Coco Brazilian Keratin Treatment).

Talking to the newspaper, a representative of Inoar said they've tested their products every year since 2011 and they’ve always been below the allowed level of formaldehyde. She said the treatments that contained formaldehyde were indicated as such on the labelling. 

The formaldehyde controversy isn’t the first one this treatment has had to face. Way back in 2013 our beloved Jennifer Aniston cut her hair short after it reacted badly to a Brazilian blowdry and ended up being very damaged.

The bottom line

Don’t just grab the first product or Groupon you see. Be direct when making an appointment or insist on reading the label at the salon. New and improved products and services come out every day. This is probably a case of you getting what you pay for. The better informed your stylist is, the better product he/she will use. The final decision does rest with you, though.

Remember home products won’t give you that customised result. "The difference between (at home treatments and salon treatments) comes down to the quality of the keratin, and a professional knowing exactly what type of treatment works best for your hair," hairstylist Abraham Sprinkle told instyle

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