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Under your skin

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How does it happen?

Leonard Hayflick discovered in the 1950s that ageing is inevitable. He found that a cell divided a certain number of times and then rejuvenation didn't happen anymore.

Known as "The Hayflick Limit", this ground-breaking research proved that although ageing is a pre-programmed process, by finding ways to reduce or eliminate cell damage, the ageing process could be far less debilitating.

Four major theories exist as to the causes of ageing. The "Wear and Tear Theory" puts the blame on our lifestyles, diet and environment; the "Neuroendocrine Theory" blames hormones; the "Genetic Control Theory" blames our parents; and the "Free Radical Theory" blames practically everything we do that causes damage to our cells.

Sun exposure­

Ultraviolet light exposure is a form of radiation and can ultimately cause damage to the DNA of skin cells. Eventually they don't rejuvenate as they should, which results in premature ageing and the possibility of skin cancer.

It's essential to wear a SPF daily of at least 15 against both UVA and UVB radiation in South Africa. An SPF of 30 is recommended if you spend a lot of time in the sun every day or if you are using cosmetics that speed up exfoliation, such as alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids.

Since a mere 45 minutes of UV exposure can deplete the normal antioxidant reserves of vitamin C and vitamin E within the cells, many sun protection products now also contain these.

Poor eating habits­

A diet high in sugar will cause glycosylation. This occurs when sugar binds with protein, such as collagen and elastin, resulting in the fibres cross-linking. Over time fibres become rigid and brittle, and premature ageing occurs.

Clinique's Anti-Gravity Firming Lift Cream and Lotion (both 50ml R375) contain an advanced ingredient that claims to act as a "decoy" for glycosylations' unwanted distortions by joining up with the excess sugar molecules before they tangle and twist collagen and elastin.

Stress­

Prolonged stress results in an over secretion of cortisol, which then causes a suppression of other strategic "anti-ageing" hormones – Dr Nicholas Perricone, a Yale University dermatological and anti-ageing expert refers to cortisol as the "death hormone".

According to researchers, DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone) is an essential anti-ageing hormone that keeps the levels of cortisol in check.

Studies show that DHEA levels are sufficient in people under 30 whereas at 40 the level drops to no more than half the optimum level. By the age of 75 it has decreased by 80 to 90 percent.

Smoking­

Not only does this destroy vitamin C and cause a flood of free radicals, but noxious gases literally poison the skin ­ after sun exposure, smoking is recognised as the number two cause of premature ageing.

"Smoking completely dehydrates the skin," says Dr Daniel Maes, Vice President Global Research and Development for Estée Lauder.

"The skin's natural barrier is weakened and skin is more susceptible to damage, but the actual action of smoking also has an effect on skin. Smokers tend to purse their lips when they inhale on a cigarette and this action repeated over and over results in the creation of lines and wrinkles."

Lack of sleep

A hormone that's responsible for the formation of new skin cells, human growth hormone, is secreted at night. Poor sleep results in less human growth hormone and the quality of your skin eventually deteriorates.

Elizabeth Arden's Ceramide Moisture Network Night Cream (50ml R385) contains special encapsulated time-release ingredients, which become available as the skin needs them.

The product is designed to work in synergy with the skin's circadian rhythms so that you wake to a fresher and brighter complexion.

Environmental toxins

­Pollution increases the formation of free radicals, those highly erratic bull-in-a-china-shop molecules that snatch oxygen from their stable counterparts.

According to Dr Nicholas Perricone, although free radicals themselves do very little direct damage, it is the chain reaction they trigger that is so destructive.

"Once these chemicals get inside the cells, they wreak havoc and result in ageing. They also precipitate the release of collagenase, an enzyme responsible for the breaking down of collagen." he says.

Harsh treatment­

In the quest for perfect skin we've become the exfoliation generation. The skin is able to tolerate and even benefit from exfoliating treatments if they are done in moderation and gently.

South Africa has an extremely high level of ultraviolet radiation and by thinning the surface layers of the skin we're making it more vulnerable.

Many skincare products are formulated overseas with their milder conditions in mind so if you are cautioned about the effects of a product due to its exfoliating properties, immediately increase your level of sun protection to at least a broad spectrum SPF 30.

The health and balance of the surface layers of the skin are very important when it comes to ageing; if the skin's barrier function is compromised, inflammation occurs which results in a cascade of ageing reactions.

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