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That clean smell, the cosy sole, the bright white of the trim. Dear Lord, there are few things finer. It seems that, locally, the culture is here to stay. Rubber-soled shoes have been around for longer than you might think. The idea only became refined in 1917, when sneakers were first mass produced.
That same year, Marquis Mills Converse produced the first shoe for basketball, the Converse All-Star. In 1923, an Indiana basketball player named Chuck Taylor endorsed the shoes, and they became known as Chuck Taylor All-Stars. They became the best-selling basketball shoes in history. In 1924, a German man named Adolf “Adi” Dassler created a sneaker that he named after himself: Adidas. This brand became the most popular athletic shoe in the world. Track star Jessie Owens was wearing Adidas when he won four gold medals at the 1936 Olympic Games, much to Nazi leader Adolf Hitler’s chagrin.
Adi’s brother Rudi started another famous sports shoe company, Puma. During the first half of the 20th century, these shoes were worn mostly to play sport. But in the 1950s, kids began wearing them as fashion statements. Sales of sneakers really took off in 1984, when Michael Jordan signed a contract to wear a Nike shoe called Air Jordan – the most famous sneaker so far made. This one shoe may very well be responsible for propelling the sneaker to pop culture fame.
The real sneakerhead
David Davey of premium sneaker boutique Shelf Life explains how the business of sneakers is about more than just money. The store houses some of the most immaculate footwear you will lay your eyes on. The most expensive pair they have right now is probably the Puma XO Parallel, which costs about R4 300.
“This is just due to the level of the product and its premium construction, and, of course, its affiliation with singer The Weeknd,” says Davey.
“A big drawcard for true sneakerheads might be the shoe’s backstory, much like that of the Chuck Taylors or Air Jordans.
“There are various motivations to buy sneakers. One is definitely the history and nostalgia, another is if it’s a collaboration with someone you admire. The other is simple hype,” he says.
People often camp outside this store to be the first in line for a new release.
“This happens often. We’ve tried to combat this with a raffle system.”
Brands structure their product offering in a pyramid – the higher up you go, the less volume and the more exclusive the product. “At Nike, it’s called Tier Zero; for Adidas, it’s called Consortium.”
A man with a love for these high-end releases is Dane Maharaj, a former lawyer who is pursuing his own business ventures.
“I’ve cared about the sneakers on my feet for as long as I can remember. I recall getting my first pair of sneakers with visible Air when I was about six. Sneakerhead is a relatively new term in South African street culture. For most of us, a love of takkies is just something we’ve always known,” Maharaj explains.
The meaning behind it
An understanding of and appreciation for the history and heritage of the shoes on our feet is important to the true sneakerhead.
“It’s not just about being into the aesthetic of a particular silhouette or brand, but rather showing a deeper understanding of the design, technology, materials and cultural context that surround the kicks on your feet,” Maharaj says.
In the US, basketball shoes are worn on the street, often to pay homage to a favourite player.
“In South Africa, our sporting heroes don’t really have signature footwear, so kids are really just rocking tennis trainers and joggers because they like the way they look and they’re obviously super comfortable.”
The feeling of a crisp new pair for Maharaj is “a feeling of instant happiness. It automatically makes me feel content. Right now, I may be sitting with between 150 and 200 pairs of sneakers.”
He does try to clear his collection out once a year. Asked about his rarest joints, he says rarity is subjective in the sneaker community.
“I have a cool Nike SB x HUF collab. I haven’t seen anyone else wearing these, which I really love.”
He has a pretty decent collection of New Balance collabs that are hard to come by, including both pairs from the Undftd x Collette x La MJC collab and some early Mita (Japan) collabs.
Quality over quantity
Mkay Frash of BoyznBucks fame started collecting in primary school. “My uncles were into dance and they were very fashion forward. I’ve always been into the Nike Foamposists. Basketball shoes are a must for me.”
I’m sure you have seen this brother on stage, chilling and wearing mad labels. He is involved in Hunting For Kicks, an online platform that links the kids of the sneaker culture with the brands. It’s an opportunity for those on either side to make money and share ideas.
“I stopped counting at like 40 or 50 pairs. I have stuff at my mom’s house and at my dad’s. They would both like it gone,” he jokes.
He still owns a few Air Force Ones from 2002, which he claims to have copped for R200.
“Kids didn’t really know much about all that back then.”
Mkay says quality is always more important than the number of sneakers one has.
“You could have 100 pairs, but only have two really dope ones. I buy art, man.”
His most expensive purchase was a pair of Adidas Yeezy, which he bought for about R5 000.
That is quite a lot of cash to spend. I imagine youmight be concerned with keeping a sneaker like this clean. The ever stylish DJ Doowap offers a few good pointers to keep your kicks in tip top shape. She explains," Give them a wipe with a sneaker cleaner (Sneaker Lab) every time you finish wearing your sneakers to ensure the dirt doesn't build up. You need a brush, cleaning spray, a bit of water and a cloth to wipe and dry.Obviously prevention is better than a cure, so a sneaker protector like Jason Markk repel, can keep them clean and protected for a long period of time."
The kids might not have known much about the kick game in 2002, but they do now. Events like Sneaker Exchange have helped further this knowledge and there is a string of young artists who wear sneakers. Youngsta CPT and DJ Doowap come to mind. There is a sneaker out there for everyone. Treat your kicks well and they won’t lead you astray.
