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Bad Hair Days

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They've shaved, powdered, worn wigs and dyed, following the fashion dictates of the day. But no more – today there are many fuss-free ways to achieve beautiful, healthy, shiny hair… Like the skin, there are many hair types, and each of them requires specific treatment.

DRY

  • Dehydrated hair needs moisture, so a deep conditioner is an absolute must after every shampoo. Apply it along the hair shaft, but not on to the roots. Leave for about three minutes, then rinse thoroughly until it's only slightly slippery to avoid weighing down the hair.
  • Hair masks are great for boosting shine but only work if left on for longer than five minutes.
  • Chemicals and excessive blow-drying should be kept to the minimum. Highlights and colouring, however, if done properly, can enhance shine and condition. L'Oréal Diacolour is excellent, as the level of peroxide is so low that it just gently swells the hair shaft. Colour shampoos also add a glow to hair, but anything containing bleach should be left to the professionals.
  • To maintain shine after colouring always use products formulated for coloured hair. They don't contain alcohol and they maintain the pH balance, thus avoiding the drying out of the hair shaft.

    LIMP AND FINE

  • Serums work brilliantly on smoothing split ends – rub a drop between your fingers and apply to damaged ends.
  • Often, droopy hair is the result of product overload, particularly overuse of conditioners. Switch to a lighter one, or skip it entirely for a few days.
  • To give lift and volume, spritz the roots (avoid the rest) with a volumising spray – we love Redken – and blast with a blow dryer.
  • Another tool to add oomph is a volumising mousse – again, apply it only to the roots. Add Velcro rollers at the crown of the head and leave for 15 minutes. Take them out, spray hair (roots only) with hairspray and you'll have more bounce to the ounce.
  • When blow-drying, drop your head forwards and, when dry, toss back – then style.
  • Tease the roots with a toothbrush – you'll be surprised at the volume you can achieve.

    OILY

  • Excess sebum on the scalp is the result of infrequent shampooing, sweating or possibly a hormone imbalance. Secretions from the scalp glands coat the hair shafts and the hair collects dust and dirt, leaving your hair looking lank, greasy and weighed down. The remedy is simple – wash your hair daily with a clarifying shampoo: Clinique's Exceptionally Clean Clarifying Shampoo (R95) and Redken Hair Cleansing Crème Clarifying Shampoo (R250) are excellent, or use any shampoo that doesn't contain conditioning agents.
  • Avoid any styling products containing silicone as it makes hair tacky.

    FRIZZY

  • This is probably the most difficult of all hair types to manage, because the hair shaft is fragile. Using chemical straighteners, as well as sun damage, makes the hair shaft even more delicate so this hair needs constant care and maintenance. For a sleeker, shinier and more controlled look, 'glue' the cuticles down with waxes and serums containing moisturisers.
  • Everyday shampoos and conditioners should be loaded with lubricants. Leave-in conditioners are also a solution.
  • If you choose to go with the curl, cut in a few layers as the weight of the hair will pull the curls downwards.
  • New York hairstylist John Sahag suggests combing the hair when wet, shaking the ends and then applying a serum or cream and letting it dry naturally.
  • To tame flyaways and add sheen, rub on a drop or two of Kerastase Serum Nutri-Instant.

    FRAZZLED

  • Damaged hair is normally the result of chemical processing or excessive blow drying. Once damaged you have few options other than disguise: Use leave-in conditioners that will coat the hair shaft, leaving it looking smoother and less brittle.
  • When styling, be as gentle as possible – use a moisturising detangler and comb through, small section by small section, starting at the ends and working upwards.
  • Trim frazzled ends every four to six weeks until it's grown out.

    CURLY HAIR

  • This is the most common hair type – about 60 percent of the world's population have varying degrees of curly hair. Normally, curly hair is dry so it requires shampoos and conditioners containing moisturisers.
  • Serums on wet hair smooth the hair cuticle.
  • Charles Worthington, British hairstylist supremo says, 'Be liberal with products – serums and mousses define the curls – or blow dry the curl out.'
  • Another tip is to brush the hair straight while wet, add gel and allow it to dry naturally.

    HAIR TIPS

  • Don't allow your hair to deteriorate to such a degree that it gets out of condition. Avoid the sun, especially if your hair has been coloured.
  • Use gentle shampoos and conditioners at all times. Select products that are suitable for your hair type or condition.
  • Rough towel drying can cause friction to curly hair making it frizz. Rather blot the hair.
  • If you're not sure of your hair type ask your hairdresser for an expert diagnosis.

    THE CUT IS IMPORTANT:

    Fine, straight hair needs guts. Don't grow hair below the shoulders; clever layering can give the illusion of thicker hair and provide movement. A fringe is also a good idea if it suits your face shape.

    Thick, coarse hair is the easiest, but it requires constant care and control – don't cut it too short, otherwise it will look like a bushy helmet.

    Curly hair varies from fine to thick, so the cut and length are dictated by face shape – the longer you let it grow, the less curl there will be.

    Ethnic/frizzy hair is very diverse in texture, but your choices for handling it are limited: Keep it natural; get it into fantastic condition and learn styling techniques like plaiting and cork screws; or straighten it. As this last process requires chemical treatment, you will need constant maintenance to keep your hair healthy. Straightening is best done by professionals.

    Photographer: Ian Reeves

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