Natural hair care 101: the basics of going natural

Kasuba Sikamo, a 25-year-old naturalista and co-founder of Rockin’ Naturals is often asked how to revert relaxed to natural hair.

After hearing about rather daunting ‘methods’ like soaking your full head of hair in beer or applying a chemical that makes hair revert back to its kinky roots, her answer remains: "you can only achieve a fully natural head by chopping off the relaxed ends and letting your hair grow as it is."

Kasuba told the Mandy expedition that going natural allowed her to be in total control of her hair. Being a naturalista for more than 3 years, her natural hair makes her feel more authentic.

In a follow-up to my recent column, offering tips from my natural hair transitioning experience, Sikamo offers a well-rounded, detailed response on the two major ways to revert to your natural hair:

The Big Chop vs. The Slow Transition

The big chop entails cutting off all relaxed or permed ends. This can often mean cutting a close shave. 

Samira Wiley from Orange is the New Black pulls off the close shave so well...

But doing the big chop can take a great deal of psychological preparation, says Sikamo and for those not comfortable with the big chop opting for the slower transitioning. This is to simply discontinue the use of relaxers, perms and to avoid heat-requiring style such as blow-outs and curling irons.

This has usually been the most desirable option as many naturalistas subconsciously start this way. It’s great because you can decide at which length to maintain your hair while waiting for growth.

But this doesn’t come without challenge. According to Sikamo, handling two different hair textures (straight and curly) can be quite difficult – especially if you’re a new to natural hair care. She greatly advises a good moisture and protein balance for your hair.

A second challenge, while going the transitioning route, is to avoid demarcation breakage – breakage where the two textures meet. Sikamo suggests avoiding excessive combing or brushing.

For more on great hair:

Yes, you can! How to deal with winter dreads

‘A black woman’s hair is a political statement’

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