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The skinny on size-zero models

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Paging through a glossy magazine, we’re practically harassed by the images of seemingly perfect women – perpetuating an unrealistic aesthetic ideal amongst women and teenagers.

Now, one of the most prominent figures in the multi-billion dollar fashion empire, Alexandra Shulman (pictured below) has lashed out at top fashion houses including Versace, Prada, Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano, and scores of designers in Europe and America, accusing them of being catalysts for the unhealthy lifestyles of “size-zero” models.

In a strongly-worded letter seen only by the UK’s The Times, Shulman accused designers of forcing fashion magazines to hire models with “jutting bones and no breasts or hips” by supplying them with “miniscule” garments for their photo shoots. She added that Vogue is frequently “retouching” photographs to make models appear larger.

Shulman claims that the clothes created by designers for catwalk shows and subsequently sent to magazines for use in their photo shoots have become “substantially smaller”. The garments are typically sent to magazines six months before they appear in the shops and editors have no choice but to hire models that fit the clothes or fail to cover the latest collections from the leading designers. “We have now reached the point where many of the sample sizes don’t comfortably fit even the established star models,” Shulman wrote.

Her intervention has been hailed as a turning point in the debate over “size-zero” models that has raged following the deaths of three South American models, Ana Carolina Reston, 21, and sisters Luisel and Eliana Ramos, 21 and 18 respectively, from complications linked to malnutrition and anorexia in 2006.

Baroness Denise Kingsmill, who headed the 2007 Model Health Inquiry (which ultimately failed) on behalf of the British Fashion Council, said the stand taken by Shulman was “an encouraging sign” from one of the industry’s “leading lights.” And supermodel Erin O’Connor described Shulman’s stand as “a huge breakthrough”.

However, the controversial size-zero debacle leads one to question the sincerity and timing of Shulman’s intercession, since she’s held the Editor-in-Chief position for nearly 17 years. Why has it taken her this long to voice her outrage? And more importantly, why does the greater fashion and modelling industry remain silent on the size-zero issue up till today?

According to Beat, Britain’s leading eating disorder charity, a staggering 1.1 million people are affected by anorexia or bulimia.

Despite a number of countries’ attempts to curb the size zero trend by enforcing body mass index standards (no less than 18.5) and banning models under age 16, size zero models can still be found walking the runways in parts of the U.K and America.

Some designers have responded to Shulman, insisting that the rest of the fashion industry is as culpable as the designers. Designer Kinder Aggugini called the size-zero trend a “vicious cycle” perpetuated by the entire fashion industry. “If tomorrow all magazines, model agencies and stylists used bigger girls, then the designers would too,” he said.

So how does this affect the local scene? According to fashion website, ifashion.co.za, South Africa has neither regulatory bodies nor any policies to protect the well-being of models. And while many local ramp models may not appear sick at first glance, we're unable to tell whether their BMIs are dangerously low; and there’s a good chance they may be suffering from an eating disorder.

Should the fashion industry cater for all sizes in their fashion shows? Share your thoughts and comments with us below.

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