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Why gender-bending is the new norm in fashion

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Asanda Sizani has carved an inimitable name for herself in South African fashion. Her diverse experience spans across print, advertising and television. As a style journalist, stylist and creative consultant, Sizani has worked for some of the largest fashion magazines and retailers in the country. She has held the position of Fashion Editor at ELLE and previously, Drum magazine. She has written regular columns for Grazia, Juice and recently, an introduction to the Africa chapter in a coffee table book, Global Style Tribes. Sizani is a regular fashion collaborator for Woolworths' WMag and a sought after style consultant. She is a member of the Berlin UP Fashion Committee which creates trade and networking opportunities for African designers in Germany.

This season’s runway collections have been a real eye-opener. Not only because of the incredible design talent that continues to inspire, but because some of the men on the runway looked... like women. In fact, some, (Chulaap’s show for example) were women — an increasing trend in menswear shows. Gender-bending is nothing new in fashion or pop culture, but thanks to a troupe of contemporary South African designers such as Rich Mnisi and Orange Culture, this theme of gender-neutral dress has been reimagined. Both designers are known for their fearless explorations of gender politics.

As I sat on the front row on each day of the recent SA Menswear Week, I took note of the common thread running through the collections – gender-bending. More than ever, we are seeing deliberately ambiguous outfits on both men and women.

Read: Gender Free featured on Superbalist.com

Womenswear has become more masculine and menswear has an outright feminine touch. Traditional male dressing codes have been diverted - after all, the colour of 2016, as decreed by Pantone, is Rose. This romantic, serene colour challenges traditional perceptions of colour association. Very fitting since we are experiencing a gender blur in fashion. It’s a unisex hue we will see trickle into all forms of design throughout the year.

Androgyny is certainly not new. But jumpsuits worn over polonecks on men are. Lace, handbags, florals and ruffles are no longer viewed as strictly ladylike. Designers and stylists are breaking the traditional rules of menswear. Masculine pieces anchor my wardrobe, and there are key pieces I would recommend be incorporated in an androgynous wardrobe. Wide leg trousers, a biker jacket, a button up shirt, thick-soled laceups. These are accessible pieces that are easy to mix and match to your heart’s content.


Be inspired by some of these Instagram stars and their gender-bending style:

-    Jo’burg based designer Rich Mnisi challenges gender perception.

-    Jaden Smith challenges masculinity norms by wearing skirts and dresses.

-    Alea May has an urban sport aesthetic. Her masculine outerwear and restrained palette results in tomboy chic that’s truly hers.

-    Jo’burg based Yasmin Furmie pairs mens inspired overalls and sneakers with ladylike accessories. It results in eclectic styling that’s always a feast for the eyes.

-    I am constantly inspired by the idea of breaking fashion rules. On a recent trip to Hong Kong, style photographer Trevor Stuurman and I played with gender-bending styling. I wrapped a scarf as a man skirt around a male model’s waist on a MaXhosa by Laduma look book.

-    Me wearing a boyish tracksuit with a long, tailored shirt.

-    Malibongwe Tyilo recently wore a printed coat to the Zeitz Mocaa Gala dinner by womenswear designer Julia Bass.

-    Laduma Ngxokolo’s Design Indaba winner of the Most Beautiful Object in South Africa competition is a versatile, unisex piece. Whether you’re a man or man, this oversized, premium knitted shawl adds interest and character to any look.

Be inspired to explore and play with fashion. Why not?

Follow Asanda on Instagram @asandasizani

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