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Soap-making made simple

What is soap?
Soap is made by mixing an alkaline substance, usually caustic soda (sodium hydroxide), with plant or animal fat. The caustic soda is first mixed with a liquid to form a caustic solution or lye.

It is then added to heated oils, at which point a process known as saponification takes place. The solution is stirred and it starts to thicken until it reaches the trace stage.

Basic ingredients
Most types of soap are made with a few basic ingredients. The ratio of the different ingredients can be adjusted to make the soap foam more, or give it a coarser texture, for example.

  • Caustic soda – This is the alkaline ingredient in soap, available from most hardware stores.

  • Fat or oil – A number of different natural oils can be used to make soap, and each one will deliver a different result. These include beeswax, cocoa butter, coconut oil, honey and sunflower oil.

  • Liquid – This is one of the most important ingredients in soap. Use clean, fresh water – rainwater or bottled water – for the best results.

    Cow's milk or goat's milk is sometimes used to aid the chemical process, and although these ingredients usually give the soap a wonderfully creamy texture, their inclusion is best left to the experts.

  • Organic matter – This is used to add texture, colour and fragrance. Examples include dried spices, such as cinnamon and cloves, lavender flowers, orange peel, flower petals, seeds, coffee, and even chocolate.

  • Essential oils – These are pure oils that are extracted from plants. They can be added to �soap to give it an intense fragrance, as well as for their therapeutic properties.

    Types of soap

  • Clear soap – Quick and easy to make – ideal for beginners. Ready-made soap chips are melted over a low heat, then essential oils and organic matter are added before the mixture is poured into moulds to harden. The process takes between one and two hours.

  • Massage or moisturising melts – This is another easy soap-making technique, and produces soaps that have wonderfully moisturising properties.

    Different oils are heated over a low heat, then essential oils are added and the mixture is poured into moulds. It cools in the moulds and is then refrigerated to harden completely.

  • Cold-processed soap – This is an intricate and time-consuming process, but the results are well worth the effort. It produces a product with wonderful texture, fragrance and colour.

    Caustic soda is dissolved in water and the oils are heated over a very low heat. The caustic-soda solution or lye is then stirred into the oils until the mixture reaches the trace stage.

    The mixture is poured into a container and has to stand for 24 to 48 hours to cool and set. The soap is then removed from the container, but has to be stored for another six to eight weeks before it is ready to use.

    Fragrance
    Essential oils are the quickest and easiest way to add fragrance to soap. Choose an essential oil that will complement the type of soap you are making, and the purpose for which it will be used.

    Find out about the properties of a specific essential oil before experimenting with it. Essential oils can be costly, and can easily ruin your soap if they are not used correctly.

    Colour
    The organic matter that is used in the soap-making process will lend its natural hues to the finished product.

    However, these colours are often muted, so there are a few ways in which you can up the intensity. Clear soap can be coloured with food colouring.

    Massage or moisturising melts and cold-processed soap can only be coloured with natural pigments such as cayenne pepper, turmeric, curry powder or cinnamon. Always bear in mind that natural pigments may react with the other ingredients, causing the colour to change or become dull.

    Most craft shops stock liquid colorants that are used specifically for colouring soap, or you can use wax chips. Some manufacturers even use broken wax crayons to colour their soap. Take care not to overdo the colour – it could easily give off pigment that might stain your towels.

    Warning
    Caustic soda should be handled with care – it is very strong and can cause serious burns if it comes into direct contact with your skin.

    Always keep it out of reach of children and wear a pair of protective gloves and an apron when you work with it. It is also advisable to wear a mask that covers your nose and mouth, as the lye emits strong fumes.

    Protect your eyes with a pair of safety glasses (you can even wear a pair of swimming goggles). Always keep lemon juice or vinegar nearby when working with caustic soda.

    Splash some onto the affected area immediately if the caustic-soda solution comes into contact with your skin, then rinse well with water.

    Tools
    You will have most of these items in your kitchen, but bear in mind that you won't be able to use them for preparing food again.

    Use stainless-steel or plastic items that will be able to withstand the heat that is released during the chemical process. Wood and aluminium are not suitable, because they could react with the chemicals. This is a general list of items that you'll need:

  • kitchen scale
  • glass measuring cup
  • measuring spoons
  • large stainless-steel saucepan
  • glass mixing bowl
  • sharp knife for cutting the soap
  • stainless-steel spoon or plastic spatula
  • old whisk or hand beater
  • old grater
  • funnel
  • plastic or silicone moulds
  • oil spray or non-stick cooking spray to grease the moulds
  • medicine dropper for adding essential oils
  • old blankets or towels for insulating the soap as it sets
  • clingwrap
  • rubber gloves, apron, mask and safety glasses
  • vinegar or lemon juice
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